Most guides either ignore or dismiss Lefkimi, but anyone interested in how a Greek town works away from the bustle of tourism should not miss it. The charm of the place, where donkeys are still occasionally used as transport and some women retain traditional costume, lies in its resistance to tourism, which is perhaps understandable as it is so close to the excesses of Kavos.
Nonetheless, it can claim to be the second-largest town on the island by some margin and is also the administrative centre for the south of the island. Over one kilometre east lies Corfu's second biggest port, while about 2km north the south's principal salt pans are to be found. Maps distinguish between Ano Lefkimi and LEFKIMI proper, but in fact the two flow into each other and the conurbation also incorporates the neighbourhoods of Potami and Melikia. There are several roads into town from the startling new stretch of sodium-lit dual carriage- way, which means traffic for the port and Kavos can bypass the town entirely.
The first link road, which enters the northwestern suburbs around 5km from Perivoli village, soon reaches the centre of town, where a left turn funnels traffic into a one-way system that loops back northwest, while the main street winds downhill past the school and town hall to the lower suburbs.