Most guides either ignore or dismiss Lefkimi, but anyone interested in how a Greek town works away from the bustle of tourism should not miss it. The charm of the place, where donkeys are still occasionally used as transport and some women retain traditional costume, lies in its resistance to tourism, which is perhaps understandable as it is so close to the excesses of Kavos.
Nonetheless, it can claim to be the second-largest town on the island by some margin and is also the administrative centre for the south of the island. Over one kilometre east lies Corfu's second biggest port, while about 2km north the south's principal salt pans are to be found. Maps distinguish between Ano Lefkimi and LEFKIMI proper, but in fact the two flow into each other and the conurbation also incorporates the neighbourhoods of Potami and Melikia. There are several roads into town from the startling new stretch of sodium-lit dual carriage- way, which means traffic for the port and Kavos can bypass the town entirely.
The first link road, which enters the northwestern suburbs around 5km from Perivoli village, soon reaches the centre of town, where a left turn funnels traffic into a one-way system that loops back northwest, while the main street winds downhill past the school and town hall to the lower suburbs.

The facades of the main street and surrounding alleys are very attractive and it's a welcome change to see real shops selling functional everyday items instead of tourist para-phernalia.
There's some fine architecture, including several particularly imposing (but usually locked) churches: Agioi Anargiri with a striking double belfry, and Agios Arsenios, whose vast orange dome can be seen for miles around, pose proudly on raised platforms at the upper end of town, whereas Agios Theodoros and its beautiful cam-panile sit on a mound above a small village square, halfway down the hill towards the canal. While it's hardly Amsterdam, the canal that carries the River through the lower suburb of Potami has some pleasant spots for a drink or meal by the pretty bridge